Starting from Seed | A Beginners Guide

The art of seed-starting is easy to master with a little practice and dedication. Growing plants from seed is a rewarding and very inexpensive way to start your home garden. There is something wonderful about growing a garden from scratch. The experience of watching your first seedlings appear, as if by magic, out of the soil is one not soon to be forgotten. In this post I’ve put together a guide to help you successfully start herb seeds at home this spring.

“All the flowers of all tomorrows are in the seeds of today”
~ Indian proverb

All the information needed for a plant to grow, adapt, thrive, and produce offspring lies dormant in a living seed. With just the right combination of each of the four elements of air, water, earth, and fire ~ oxygen, moisture, soil, and sun ~ the seed will be coaxed to unfurl itself and begin to flourish and grow into a mature plant.

Seeds hold so much promise. After over a decade of seed-growing and seed-saving I have only become more and more in awe of the magic, mystery, and metaphor that each humble seed holds within it. Seeds are great teachers. Wrapped in the many lessons of careful tending, each seed we sow holds the promise of what we may reap tomorrow.

The wild and wonderful herb garden at Fireweed Farm & School in Victoria BC.

It’s the end of February as I write this and the plants are slowing waking up in the garden outside. It’s time for planning the season ahead and in a few short weeks it will be time to start the first seeds of the season. It is an exciting time of year with a bounty of possibilities feeding us endless inspiration.

At our farm in the mild Pacific Northwest, mid-March to mid-May is when we do most of our seed-starting. If you live in a cooler climate you may wish to wait until mid-April or later. This will prevent your seedlings from getting too big or leggy before the soil has warmed enough to plant them outside. This is especially important for fast growing annual herbs, such as Borage or Virginia Tobacco for example, which may become stunted or bolt if left in pots too long. 

Starting seeds indoors in containers in the spring is a great way to extend the season and give your plants a head start before transplanting out to the garden. For long-season warm-climate herbs like Ashwagandha, Wild Dagga, and the different varieties of Basil and Tabacco, giving them a head start is essential. I would recommend starting them indoors in early to mid-April, then transplanting them outdoors once all danger of frost has passed.

Many perennial herbs such as Motherwort, Echinacea, and Catnip also benefit from an early spring head start. It gives the plants an opportunity to grow larger and become more resilient before having to brave the elements outdoors. The plants will need to be watered regularly once transplanted out and the naturally more-moist conditions of spring will favour your transplants timing-wise.

A seed-grown patch of Echinacea in full bloom in its third season (with a happy honey bee).

The vast majority of herb seed varieties do well when started indoors or under cover in the spring, though for some varieties direct seeding or fall sowing may be needed for optimal germination. Often native plants, such as Fireweed, Elderberry, and Goldenrod, need a stratification period and do best sown outdoors in fall, winter or very early spring. These varieties can be sown outdoors in containers or directly in place.

Direct seeding outdoors in spring can also be a great way to start many herbs. Annual and biennial herbs such as Dill, Cilantro, Borage, and Calendula all do very well direct sown. By mid-May the soil has usually warmed enough to be favourable for outdoor spring seeding. Sowing times for all herb seeds on our site can be found in each individual seed variety profile, or listed in our Seed Sowing Guide.

At our farm the majority of our seeds are started in early spring in a large cold-frame with the addition of bottom heat. A sunny south facing window in the house may also work well, but it is important to keep in mind that sunlight in early spring is much weaker than in summer, and also the days are shorter. Limited sunlight is one of the biggest challenges of starting seeds indoors in spring, and grow lights are often a simple remedy.

Sowing seeds in containers gives you more control over germination conditions such as light, temperature and moisture. If you start with fresh potting soil it will also eliminate some of the potential issues such as heavy clay in the soil, unwanted fungal or bacterial diseases, or weed seeds that you may encounter when seeding in used garden soil or outdoors.

For the best success, I would recommend purchasing seed-starting mix. This type of soil is a little different than other potting soils, mainly in that it has a much finer texture which will make it easier for your seeds to break through the soil surface. It also retains moisture better. Potting mix works fine too though, just make sure to only choose organic soils. Conventional potting mixes may contain chemical wetting agents and chemical fertilizers which are best avoided.

There are different types of containers to choose from, including peat pots, coir pots, or plastic, each with its appeals. Plastic is by far the easier container to use, as peat and coir dry out rapidly. Creating your own pots out of plastic containers from the recycling bin is great, just make sure to wash them thoroughly before using, and poke a few drainage holes in the bottom. Wider, rather than deeper is best, your containers only need to be 2-3 inches deep, and the wider they are the less chance of overcrowding as the seedlings come up.

A shallow 2” deep flat with new Ashwagandha seedings emerging. Once the seedlings are big enough to handle they will be transplanted into 4” pots, and eventually transplanted into the ground.

When you are ready to sow your seeds, fill your flat or container with seeding-mix and water the soil in thoroughly before seeding. If the soil is dry, you may need to water a second or third time, with a few minutes in between waters to allow the soil to rehydrate. Watering at this stage is important, it will make it easier to keep the soil evenly moist once your seeds are in place, it will also help settle the soil into the pot and remove the larger air pockets.

Next, place your seeds on the surface of the soil. Leave enough space between the seeds so they they won’t become crowded once they emerge. At the farm we are grow a lot of herbs in a small space, and we sow the seeds about 1/8” to 1/4” apart to save room, and then pot them up into 4” pots as soon as they are ready to prevent crowding. At home, you may wish to leave a bit more room between the seeds, 1/2” to 1” should be plenty of space for this stage of growth.

When deciding how many seeds to plant, expect about 40-50% germination for most varieties, that way you will have more than enough seedlings even if the conditions are not right for all of them to come up. If you are sowing older seeds, germination may be reduced, so you may wish to sow them more thickly. The average shelf-life of seeds is on average is about 3 years. After that time germination rates may rapidly decline.

The ripened flower heads of Black-eyed Susan and the hundreds of tiny seeds they contain.

As a general rule, bury the seeds to a depth two to three times the thickness of the seed. Keep in mind that once firmed into place and watered in, the soil depth will be greatly reduced, likely by half. Most seeds need darkness to germinate so it is important to cover them completely. Once you have the seeds laid out on the soil, cover with the appropriate amount of fine seeding-mix and gently pat down or firm into place. Then gently and evenly water the surface layer with a fine spray.

Note that if buried too deep your seeds may expire or rot before reaching the surface of the soil. Also, very fine seeds, such as Mullein, Chamomile, and Wormwood, should sown on the surface of the soil, lightly dusted with seeding-mix and gently but firmly pressed into place.

Germination generally takes 2-4 weeks for most seed varieties. Sprouting will generally take place much faster and more successfully with a bit of added warmth. Most seeds need at a least a consistent minimum temperature of 12C to germinate. Some herbs, such as Ashwagandha or Basil, need higher temps of over 21C (average indoor room temp) to sprout. Try adding bottom heat in your greenhouse or on your window ledge to help warm the soil.

Once you have gotten your seeds all tucked into their cozy new soil homes, all you need to do is water, watch, and wait for the magic to happen! Regulating moisture is key to having successful germination and plant growth. You’ll want to keep the soil evenly moist at all times but not soggy. It is important to check on your newly seeded containers at least once or twice a day. Watering gently by hand with a fine spray watering can is best to prevent dislodging the seeds. A spray or mister bottle may also work well.

Once the new little sprouts pop out of the soil it is very important they have access to adequate sunlight to develop properly and prevent legginess. You want your seedlings to look more short and stocky rather than tall and slender: more like dwarves than elves. If you see long, pale, unusually thin stems bending toward the light this is a sign that the amount of sunlight they get needs to be increased. 

Over-watering and ‘damping off’ can also be common problems once your seedlings are up. Damping off causes rotting of the seedlings stems and is due to a fungus that flourishes in overly moist conditions. To prevent this, try letting the soil surface dry out very briefly in between waterings. Red or green algae growth (as seen on the soil in the photo below of the Clary Sage seedlings) is also a sign of over watering.

Clary sage seedlings with 1-2 sets of fuzzy true leaves above the simple and smooth set of seed leaves.

Once your seedlings have one or two sets of true leaves, they are ready to pot up into larger 3”-4” pots. This is an intermediary stage before planting your herbs outdoors in the ground or in larger containers. There are times when this stage may not be necessary, but it is a good idea as it assures the seedlings are nice and big and resilient before braving the outdoors, giving them a greater chance of survival.

When potting up into larger pots, it is important to give your plants a bit of nutrition. Seeding-mix and most potting mixes have almost zero nutrient content. When your seedlings are tiny they can live off the nutrition stored in their seed, but soon will need minerals from the soil to help with photosynthesis. Mixing in 1/4-1/2 volume of organic compost into your potting mix will be sufficient. You can also water in with kelp extract, compost tea, or fish fertilizer, but herbs generally don’t need extra fertilizer.

Before transplanting, make sure to water your flats thoroughly before pricking out the seedlings. This will help the roots to become more flexible and reduce shock to the plants. Once transplanted, the seedlings should be watered immediately in the their new pots and then placed out of direct sunlight for a day so that they can recover.

The Clary Sage seedlings are filling out their 4” pots and will soon be ready to transplant out in the garden.

Seeds started in mid-March through mid-April will usually fill out a 4” pot by mid-May to early June. Check that the roots are well-formed enough to hold the soil together when removed from the pot. If so, they should be ready to transplant. Make sure not to let the plants become root-bound before planting as this may cause them to become stunted.

It is important to prevent transplant shock by hardening them off first. This involves gradually introducing them to the outdoor conditions before permanently planting them in their new homes. You can begin hardening off by opening a window for a few hours each day or moving your seedlings into a temporary cold frame. Once your starts are in the garden they will need to be watered regularly to help them establish.

~

If first you don’t succeed, try try again! With a little patience and careful tending we can all learn to be ‘green thumbs’. Wishing you many green blessing for an abundant growing season ahead!

A torrent of fragrant Clary Sage blossoms in the second year after seeding.

SEED STARTING GLOSSARY

Annual
An annual is a plant that completes its life cycle in one year. Annuals grow from seed, produce leaves and flowers, produce seed, and die all in one year.

Biennial
A biennial is a plant that completes its life cycle in two years. Biennials grow from seed and produce leaves in the first year. In the second year they flower, produce seed, and die.

Bolting
Bolting is the premature flowering of an annual plant. It often leads to the setting of seed and prevents further growth.

Bottom-heat
Bottom-heat is the application of warmth under your seeding containers. This directly warms the soil and increases germination speed and rates. Heating mats can be purchased at garden centres are the simplest method of applying bottom heat in the home.

Legginess
Legginess is displayed by seedlings that are thin and pale in appearance with long, stretched out stems. Plants that do not receive enough sunlight will often become leggy and they are doing so as a result of trying to stretch out farther to reach any available light. It is best if corrected immediately before the stems become so weak that they collapse. Grow lights may be needed. Turning your pots a quarter turn each day in the window will also encourage more even growth.

Perennial
A perennial is a plant that lives for 3 or more years. The average life of a perennial garden herb, such as Rosemary, Elecampane, or Wormwood for example is 20-30 years. Perrenials grown from seed often grow leaves and establish strong roots the first year and only begin blooming the second year onward.

Pricking-out
Pricking-out is a term for separating and potting up seedlings. This is generally done once the seedlings have their first one or two sets of true-leaves. During this process, always handle seedlings by their leaves, not their stems. The seedlings only have one stem which is irreplaceable if damaged, but may grow new leaves. Always water well before and after handling and gently tease apart the roots. Transplant into pots immediately. When transplanting try to keep the roots pointing downwards just as they were in the original flat. Gently firm the soil around the seedling so that the roots come in contact with the soil and the plant is supported.

Stratification
As an adaptation to survive in nature, some seeds have built-in germination inhibitors that keep them from breaking dormancy and sprouting at the wrong time. Seed stratification is the process of treating seeds to simulate the natural conditions that the seeds must experience before germination can occur. Some, though not all, native plants require a cold-moist stratification period. The easiest way to achieve this is to simply sow the seeds outdoors in fall, just as the plants would naturally drop their seeds on their own.